Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette! Inthis video, we talk about big and tall clothing such as suits, shirts, but we also discusswhat men can wear if they’re shorter and have a belly. When you’re a portly man, you really haveto pay attention to your fit. The problem is, it’s very hard for you to find a goodsuit that fits you. Now when you buy a suit off the rack, you have to bear in mind thatwhat happens when they size it just gets gradually bigger and smaller all over.
That means ifyou get a large suit that fits around your belly, it’s also going to be longer and widerin the chest. While you can shorten sleeves, you cannot shorten the length of the jacketbecause otherwise, everything looks disproportionate and especially the buttoning point gets toolow which makes it look like you have short legs and everything looks unfavorable. Ifyou are big and tall, it’s relatively easy because there are specialized stores thatprovide suits for you.
If that’s the case, you can go off the rack and go to your alterationstailor afterwards. If you are not tall but have a bit of a belly, you should really investin a made to measure program or ideally, bespoke because you’ll get much better results. Hereare a few key points to pay attention to when you buy a suit.
First of all, you want it to be single-breasted,not a double breasted because that makes you look wider and you want to enhance the lookand make you look slimmer visually. Next up is to skip the belt. With a belt,your trousers will slide down, it may look uncomfortable for you.
If you substitute themfor suspenders, the pants will look more flattering, it will be more comfortable because they canbe a little wider and everything rests on your shoulder.
You should also opt for pleats because theygive you a little more room which not only makes everything look more proportional butit’s also more comfortable when you sit. If you really want to provide a polished look,try to go with a vest but you have to make sure that the rise of your trousers is highenough so the vest covers the waistband of the pants otherwise, it looks odd and youshould skip the vest.
One thing I often see with suits of big menis that their shoulder is super extended. Ideally, you should feel where your shoulderbone is and that’s where the shoulder should end or just slightly extend. Again, this isa problem off the rack, also the shoulders get wider then you look like a football playerand it makes you look even bigger than you actually are.
At the same time, you want toavoid having overly tight garments especially on your buttoning point, you don’t want tosee any X wrinkles because it’s a clear indication that the garment is too tight. In terms oflapel width, I suggest you skip the skinny lapel because it just doesn’t go with yourbuilt. Opt for something classic that’s about 3-3 1/2 inches wide. The same is true for ties, you should go fora classic, 9cm, 3 1/2 width because it wors better with your physique. When you have abigger belly, you have to make sure that your tie is a little longer otherwise, it can lookquite short and more like a boy’s tie.
For a selection of ties in three different lengths,please check out our shop here. In terms of vents, you should always skipthe middle vent becuse it’s more likely to gap on your seat and then looks unfavorable. Therefore, I suggest, you go with 2 side vents that gives you more room, looks more dapper,and you’ll be more comfortable. In terms of colors and patterns, I suggestyou start out with solids because you don’t want to wear something that is too flashy.
Maybe a subtle stripe or some windowpane of navys, grays, dark grays would be just fine. Really, focus more on the fit because that will flatter you overall much more. For shirts, a classic white or light blueis a perfect place to start. Later on maybe you add some pink but always make sure tokeep it pale and never go with strong colors because it will harmonize well with your darkersuits. Shirts off the rack have the same problem as the jackets.
Usually, everything scales. That means that the collar is often way too wide and it looks very sloppy.Customizedshirts or made to measure shirts are very affordable and you can find them online startingat 30 bucks. of course, at that price, you really have to make compromises about thefabric quality but since fit is the most important thing, you can start there if you can’t affordmore and then slowly work your way up. When it comes to shirt collars, you want toget a slim, classic collar.
Why? because it gives you a slimming effect. On the otherhand, a widespread, cutaway collar makes you look bigger than you actually are and youwant to avoid that because you’re already a little more portly. At the same time, youdo not want to go with a very small collar because you’re a bigger guy, everything hasto be proportional.
Stay away from fashiony short collars and go for something more substantial,bigger that is not too spread. When it comes to tie knots, you should gofor something medium sized, maybe a four in hand, oriental with a thicker interlining,or maybe a half windsor but stay clear of the double windsor because it’s too big andmakes you look even bigger. If you want to learn how to tie a tie knot, please checkout our series here.
When it comes to your shirt cuffs, you wantto make sure that they fit tightly against your wrist and that you show about a quarterto half an inch of cuff, makes you look very dapper and if you want, you can also go withcuff links.
If you want to have the luxury of made to measure or bespoke, discuss withyour tailor if you can increase the size of the buttons and the flap pockets because everythingwill look more proportional and will make you look smaller.
When posing for pictures, stand slightly atan angle because it will have a slimming effect on you.
Also, try to put your chin forwardand down because it avoids you having a double chin which makes you look even bigger. If you’re a bigger guy, it is in fact more difficult to find a well fitting suit but can reallylook great if you follow those tips. On top of that, you can up your wardrobe andyour look with accessories such as a nice pocketsquare, or maybe even a boutonniere. I suggest you keep it simple and get either a pocketsquare or a boutonniere or maybe someelegant over the calf socks.
When it comes to shoes, you should investin a proper pair of goodyear welted oxfords or derbys. You can learn more about those,here. This is particularly important for you becauseyour feet have to carry a heavier load and over the course of the day, that can be moretiring. You want to be sure that you’re comfortable, and stylish and the same time.
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